F or three wild years, I was a partner in a busy wood-fired, farm-to-table pizza business based at a farm in Vermont. We ...

he will sometimes select a smoked cheese to add an extra smoky kick to the combination of flavors. The point is to experiment, to try new things. The point is to expand the concept of pizza.

Like the calzone, it’s a sort of portable pizza — fillings are enclosed in ... onion and parsley balance the richness of the meat and cheese. Don’t fill and roll the dough on the counter.